International 282 Service Manual

I am getting pretty close to putting my engine back together after a full rebuild. Should have it back here tomorrow or the day after with a bit of luck.
I am after all the specs on it that I can get. Stuff like head bolt tension and order, that sort of stuff.
Is there a particular way that the oil pump has to be inserted, I mean like does it have to be timed to the cam so the dizzy is starting at the correct spot.
Bit hard to explain but the gear is on the oil pump on these, not the dizzy so I am wondering does it matter or not where it lines up.
Any info would be appreciated cos I ain't been able to find a workshop manual after 5 months of looking.
Willing to buy a book ifn you know where one is, but I need it ASAP.
Cheers. Cobba.

i have a workshop manual here with the 6-281 and the 6-282 specs. ' service manual for Carbureted engines ( 6-281,6-282,V304E.V345 and V392. I will look for what you want and copy it out for you tomorrow. RIght now i am off to night shift . Joy oh Joy . hahahaha .

I honestly can't answer that one track, but I personally don't think there have been too many changes in any of the Inter 6s over the previous 10 years since the 240 or 264 engine other than going to the tilt valve head.
I picked up an operators manual to suit a D line 1300 1800 series at the Jindera swap meet on Sunday.
It tells me how to do the timing and tune a carby but nothing to do with re assembling an engine.

Cobba, Main bearings 90-95 ft lb, Big ends 40-45 ft lb, Head bolts 90-95 ft lb starting in middle and working round in circle, pull head up in 3 stages 50.70 90. Timing Dot to Dot. oil pump just fit it. Make sure rear main is fitted proply and push nearly all the rope in back hole tight or you have big leaks. Tappets 025 ' Good luck and good building. Podge.

from memory soak the rope rear main seal in engine oil for a day or two before fitting

With rope type rear main seals, i use a 3/4 drive socket layed on its side and hit it with your hammer working from the middle to the sides ensuring the rope is seated in the groove properly. soak seal in oil before hand. trim edges with a new razor blade to get a perfect cut. I also like to put a smear of 515 loctite across the surface where the cap bolts to the block to make sure no oil sneaks through there. If the flywheel bolts are drilled right through the crank into the oil side, make sure you apply some aviation 3 gasket goo to the threads of the flywheel bolts before installing or oil will leak out through the threads.

Cobba, I have a link to a copy of a service manual for a U.S. SBD282 (super black diamond sleeveless) if thats any good to you.
Cheers Gary

Thanks to all that contributed.
I picked up the block and other bits on Friday afternoon and spent an enjoyable weekend cleaning, painting and assembling parts.
I took the easy way out and got the engine shop to assemble the short block for me. I could have done it myself but that's what they do for a crust and would (hopefully) get it right the first time.
I sent a far bit of time over the weeks preceding getting stuff to where I wanted it. First I got the head back after being dressed and tested and match ported it to the extractors I got.
You can see the scribe line in this next shot where the gasket sits onto the head. It was a neat fit onto the extractors so I just took the head out to match that.

I took a fair whack of metal out of the exhaust ports. They went from about 30 x40mm to 38 x 51mm. The inlets only got a tidy up to remove any rough castings from the factory.
Bit by bit I got stuff together and fitted em up.

And finally it looked like this. Pity I didn't spot that dent in the rocker cover before I pianted it.
I still have a bit to do yet.
I have gone down a dark road with my choice of carbi. Finding a WW stromberg was becoming difficult and the carbi shops wanted to take my second born as a deposit to supply me with one ( not really but not far off it) so I opted to go for a 350 Holley with a WW adaptor plate.
I have added a heap of metal to the original manifold to make the base big enough to accept the WW stromy. It went from this.

To this. actually, I have added another 10mm to the left and right sides since this shot was taken. I was only guessing on the sizes till I actually had a base plate to work with.
Carbi, aircleaner and base plate arrived in the post today and manifold it off to the machine shop first thing tomorrow morning to get a heap of metal chewed off it.

Will put up some pics when I get the manifold back and assembled onto the motor. Will be pretty close to putting it back in the truck by then.
Cheers. Cobba.