Moog Minimoog Model D Serial Numbers

Via Brian Kehew of:'Minimoog MODEL 'D' Changes:At first look, all Minimoogs seem alike. It seems that the Minimoog is something unchanging that we all know and recognize. They are similar to each other, but there are many features that changed over time. You may already be aware of a few differences, but most people will be surprised at how many variations there really are.One of my main goals for this site was this very page: to show the developments in the main Minimoog design (MODEL D), and give an idea when the changes happened. To my knowledge, this type of listing has not been done for the Minimoog. Once you see it - you should be able to tell what is 'original' on a Minimoog. Free omnisphere full version download. In some cases, you will even be able to guess a Minimoog's serial number quite closely after only a quick glance!

Like 'trainspotting' (identifying nearly identical trains by small distinguishing features) this is trivial, but fun.The process was simple - I compiled a database of over 100 Minimoogs. By asking owners detailed questions, I was able to determine the commmon developments. Cross-referencing this data to known dates of production, it becomes easier to see WHEN things might have happened. Note: This is by no means foolproof, and there are individual Mini's that do not fit the pattern.

The Bob Moog Foundation is raffling a vintage Minimoog Model D synthesizer, serial number #4245, to raise funding for its educational initiative, Dr. Bob's Soundschool.

For now, we will assume that they are mutants/modifieds, and simply note the main trends.The Changes:Read through these links first, so you will be familiar with the details. Then, I have arranged a timeline of the changes below for clarity. In the future, I will have photos of the changes, a helpful visual reference. The Badge.

The Factories. The Front Panel. Graphics. Wheels. Left-Hand Switches.

Panel Switches. Oscillators. Octave Buffer Board.

Rear Cover. Power Cable. Pointer Knobs. The Wood Case. The Questions used to make the database. TIMELINE of ChangesTHE BADGE(This is the 'logo plate' above the keyboard that identifies the company).

R. Moog: When the company began making synths (1964/65), this was the name, carried over from Bob's Theremin business. This metal nameplate is only found on the earliest Minimoogs from (late) 1970 through 1971.

Moog/Musonics: After Waytena bought the R.A.Moog company, it was merged with Musonics (his own company) and the Minimoogs from this brief period (1971) bear this name. A metal plaque. Moog Music Inc. After Moog was sold to Norlin/CBS in 1972, this became the name that would remain until the last Minimoogs were made. Anonymousanother variation is the physical cabinet construction.

Minis before s/n 5000 had narrower sidepieces than later Minis.mine is 4192, it has the narrow sidepieces, white smooth wheels, actual time increments on the envelope knobs, the word 'Volume' is spelled out, and it has the 'oh crap we have to wait for the suppliers 6-week lead time but we need to ship units right now' double-pointer switch knobs.it does not have the 'buffer board', which is something i need to read about. It just seems like my Mini needs to have the voltage divider resistors in the octave section switched out with.1 percent resistors, as the funky tuning between octaves is consistent. A thought occurred to me about the knobs. Bob was quoted in Vintage Keyboards as saying that when Waytena was getting ready to sell Moog Music to Norlin, he had them make up several hundred Minis, which were then stacked up as if they were being prepared to be shipped to customers.

The idea was to convince the Norlin people that Moog was doing a land-office business. (And apparently it worked.) Anyway, I wonder if this is the period that accounts for the different knobs? If they were assembling a bunch of units in a hurry, perhaps they used these knobs because that was what they had in inventory. Footnote on the clear wheels, late production, Kevin Lightner began to make clear, including clear with mulicolour led lighting, so a clear does not always mean last 25 missing a badge.Footnote on knurled wheels, bought mine with white plexi wheels in 1975 new. That is teh year the micromoog was introduced and it had the knurled wheels so I'd expect around 8900 or so the knurled wheels became standard. In a cross-over I have seen one or two Mini's with the micromoog touchstrip and knurled wheel as more of a custom shop thing.

Hello,This is my first post on the S&W forum. I acquired this gun today for next to nothing (some music equipment I was going to toss), and appropriately I know next to nothing about it, except that I've owned it for about 2 hours. To me, it looks like an older(?) military weapon, although I'm not sure why it would be finished like that.I don't really have any interest in selling it.

Even if it's un-usable, It could still be a neat discussion piece when discussing firearms, which I do frequently, as I live in Idaho. I would love to have found myself a neat-o shooter with some character. At the very least, I'd love to know a bit of history about the model,as my knowledge of revolvers is pretty limited.

I will attach pics, and try to clarify where they may be vague.The serial number on the inside of the frame reads: 9249, although the 9's look strange.The serial number on the butt is obscured by the lanyard but it looks like I can see (7?)952Thanks for any help anybody can give me.Pete. Welcome to the forum. That guns is a.38 Military & Police Model of 1905, fourth change.

Based on observable characteristics, it will date between 1915 and about 1928. The serial number from the butt is the one that counts; he number on the yoke is a process control number that has no meaning once the gun leaves the factory. Unfortunately the lanyard loop (an addition, not original to the gun) has damaged part of that number. Please look at the rear face of the cylinder and the flat underside of the barrel. In both places you should see a six-digit number that repeats the serial number from the butt of the gun, but undamaged.

Let us know that, and we can give you a better date on the gun.The gun has been refinished with a fairly aggressive polishing to give it a fresh surface, and then nickeled. There's no way of telling when that happened. Because of the refinish it has no collector value, but it has value as a shooter-grade revolver. If it is in sound mechanical condition, it's probably a $200-225 gun. As always, that's an approximation. Some gun buyers would walk past it without making an offer, and others might like the current shiny surface and pay a little more for it.The.38 M&P is S&W's best selling revolver of all time, with millions made since their first introduction in 1899.

There would not be that many if they weren't considered reliable guns by both public agencies and the gun buying public in general. The serial is on the butt. Unfortunately, if it has been obliterated by drilling the hole to add the lanyard ring it makes the gun illegal and it is subject to confiscation and destruction as contraband. The serial also appears on the rear of the cylinder and under the barrel and it could be re-stamped but the full serial must be on the frame as per federal law since 1968.The revolver appears to be a Military & Police Model and I am guessing it is from 1923 or earlier due to the large head on the ejector rod.

It has been refinished. The hammer and trigger are plated and S&W didn't do that.I see that as usual Dave has replied first. Ah Yes, including the non-obliterated portion of the serial number brings the total to 257952. I am mostly concerned with having a nice shooter, so this seems like good news.If you think it necessary, I suppose I could have it stamped to comply with federal regulations.Switched on Bach indeed, as well as switched on many other things moog, hammond, wurlitzer, rhodes and etc. I love my guns, but here is my real baby (the minimoog D finally broke).PS.I have a little secret: If you want your wife to stop worrying about your gun collection, start collecting keyboards. You can never quite fit that hammond organ where she'll forget you just got it.Thanks for your help gentlemenPete. What you have is an early S&W Military and Police revolver in 38 Special.

One of the experts will probably be along to nail down the specifics but my hunch is that what you have is the model of 1905, 5th change, however I am NOT an expert on these early M&P's. I can also tell you that it's been refinished because the factory NEVER nickle plated the hammer and trigger on these revolvers. Basically those parts being plated are a hallmark of an aftermarket refinish of questionable quality. From the appearance of the seam for the sideplate and the rounding of the roll stamps on the barrel I would say it's a rather poor job of re-finishing the revolver so it's not a high dollar gun, figure about 175 dollars if it's fully functional.

Basically it's what is referred to as a 'shooter' because it's value as a collectable is nill. BTW, one other tip for finding the full serial number is to look in the area under the barrel where the ejector rod goes because when this gun was made the barrels were marked with the serial number in this area.Before shooting it I would suggest having it looked over by a competant gunsmith to insure that the timing is within specification and the barrel is in reasonable good functional condition. If he gives it a thumbs up you'll be safe shooting it with standard 38 special ammunition.BTW, CTG is an abreviation for Cartridge and you may see some joking about it. A few months back someone asked for more information on a CTG model revolver and it became a bit of a joke thread. Thanks a bunch,It's a whole lot lighter than my 586 (6in), so i'm hoping it's functional so I can enjoy both for a bit of compare and contrast.I had been to a bunch of posts about the victory, pre-victory, pre-model ten, 38 special, 38 cartridge, and had gotten a bit turned around, so i figured I'd get the best answer just putting what was on the barrel. I'd also read somewhere about a few revolvers being re-chambered, and wanted to make sure THAT wasn't the case.I've been extra-pleased with every Smith and Wesson revolver I've even gotten my hands on, so I think I will stick with it from now on.Pete. Thanks guys, the completed serial number reads 257952, which puts it pretty early, i think.

I wonder if the nickel plating was done by/for a police dept for use in honor guard things.I don't have any serial numbers close to yours but do know that s/n 285379 shipped in October 1917. Based on that, I would guesstimate yours shipped circa 1916-1917 (prior to WWI). Pretty early for sure.Can't speculate on why the nickel re-plating, but the lanyard swivel does add an interesting dimension to the gun's history.Enjoy it,Russ. Yours can't be identified from the information you provide. A few things more are needed:Exactly what caliber is stamped on the barrel (e.g., 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG)Barrel length from the front face of the cylinder to the muzzleHow many chambers are there in the cylinder?

Could be 5 or 6 for most.38s.Does the butt appear square or rounded?What is the full number stamped on the butt, including any letters (e.g., S 921336). There may not be any letter or letters on older guns.Is there anything stamped on the topstrap, which is the area of the frame above the cylinder?Open the cylinder and look at the flat area on the frame under where the barrel screws in. Does it have something like 'MOD. 10' stamped there? There will usually be a 4 or 5 digit number also, but that means nothing.A few good pictures will help greatly in identification and also in establishing its condition. Thank you all so much for your help.

To answer your questions:Exactly what caliber is stamped on the barrel (e.g., 38 S&W SPECIAL CTG).38 S&W.CTGBarrel length from the front face of the cylinder to the muzzle.3-1/4'How many chambers are there in the cylinder? Could be 5 or 6 for most.38s.5 chambersDoes the butt appear square or rounded?squareWhat is the full number stamped on the butt, including any letters (e.g., S 921336). There may not be any letter or letters on older guns.no letters.182243Is there anything stamped on the topstrap, which is the area of the frame above the cylinder? Lots of writing!' Smith & Wesson Springfield, Mass.USA.Pat'd Oct.8 1883, Aug 4 1885, April 8, 1889'Open the cylinder and look at the flat area on the frame under where the barrel screws in. Does it have something like 'MOD. 10' stamped there?

There will usually be a 4 or 5 digit number also, but that means nothing.nothing thereA few good pictures will help greatly in identification and also in establishing its condition. What you have is a.38 Safety Hammerless revolver, sometimes referred to as the 'New Departure' or by some as the 'Lemon Squeezer.' It is chambered for the.38 S&W cartridge, which is still loaded but somewhat difficult to find.

Serial number 182243 identifies it as a Safety Hammerless, Fourth Model. It would date from the early 1900s, likely about 1905.

It looks to be in pretty good condition, but I'll let others discuss its value and how best to sell it. Unfortunately, not too many will be interested in it, as it is more in the collector realm. Unfortunately, as it was made after 1898, it is considered to be a modern firearm, not an antique. Your.38 SH is in much better than average condition for a revolver of that era, and if it functions normally and the bore and chambers are as nice as the exterior finish I would guess it to be worth in the $300-350 range to a private buyer/collector. A dealer would have to pay you less than that to be able to turn a profit at that sales price.If you know someone who is both gun literate and computer savvy, the Wanted to Sell/Trade section here may be a good option. Be sure to understand the selling rules posted in the top of that section.

Hope this is helpful.